Peak Climbing in Nepal

Peak Climbing in Nepal >> Kusum Kanguru Peak Climbing

Kusum Kanguru Peak Climbing Known as Technical Mountain, challenging ascend through all possible routes, Kusum Kanguru is an impressive rock and ice peak which forms the border between the Dudhkosi in the south and Hinku Valley to the north. Its name originating in Sherpa language means the Three Snow-White Gods. This climb is suggested only for participants who have enough alpine mountaineering experience.

South East Ridge First ascend was 1979 by Takashi Kana Hideako Naoi, Hajime Vematsu and other two Japanese in 1979. The approach through South East Face is from the Hinku valley side requires 3- 4 Camp. . From Lukla the base camp can be reached in 5 days. The ascent route to the main summit is through the South East Face. With a base cam at 4360m, two or three high camps are required to complete the climb.

North East Ridge First ascend was made 1983 by Dr David Hopkins, Neithardt( Swiss) and Andrew Wielochowski (British) reached on 16th September . It provide reasonable albeit High Standard Climb. The climb can be complete in 6 days. From base camp involves major difficulties on both rock and ice climb. The North Ridge is approached from Monjo on the trail to Namche Bazaar. From base camp ascend steep grassland and scree climb and finally a ramp leading to the ridge proper.

Trip Itinerary

Day 01: Arrival Kathmandu and transfer hotel 1350m.
Day 02: Prepare necessary equipment in Kathmandu
Day 03-07: Fly to Lukla, trek to Base camp
Day 08-13: Climbing Period
Day 14-17: Return to Lukla
Day 18: Fly Kathmandu

Using North East Ridge

Day 01: Arrive in Kathmandu, transfer to Hotel
Day 02: Prepare necessary equipment in Kathmandu
Day 03: Fly to Lukla, trek to Monjo 2800m
Day 04-07: Acclimatization and trek to Base camp alt 4280m
Day 08-13: Climbing Period

Climbing Period Itinerary Using South East Ridge (Day 08-13)

Day 01: Following the moraine of Kyashar Glacier with steep climb to Kusumkangaru Col and peak 43 to the north peak 6769m, cave camp place at 5100 meters. Camp 01
Day 02: Continue the glacier climb although small is complex and troublesome leads to flat basin at 5400m Camp two.
Day 03: A 45 degree snow rib is followed for 250 meters, to the col alt 5650 M, A Camp place at narrow precipitous slope.
Day 04: North -east ridge leads from the col to the base of pyramid alt 6194 m, this portion presents rock and snow climbing.
Day 05: The steep face leads to the top of the north east buttress of the east summit provides most concentrated difficulties combine with complex route on loose rock and variable snow and Finally traverses knife edge snow ridge to the east summit 6356 meters.

Cost Includes:

4 nights hotel in Kathmandu with 3 star bed and breakfast
Permit fee of Ganja La Chuli (Naya Kanga)
Equipment: Trekking tents, Dining tent, Kitchen Tent, Toilet Tent, Table and chairs, Mattresses during the trekking and Peak climbing period
Food: Food for trekking and Peak climbing( Breakfast, lunch, dinner)
Staff: 1 Base Camp Guide, 1 Cook, 1 Kitchen, 1 climbing guide and necessary porters
Local transportation Airport-Hotel-Airport
Kathmandu-Shybrubeshi-Kathmandu by local bus
Park fees of Annapurna region
Trekking crews of insurance
Trekking allowance, food allowance for trekking crews
Our service charge
Trekkers Information Managgement System (TIMS)

Cost does not includes:

PERSONAL equipment for climbing
Personal Insurance for travel to Nepal
Climbing food
Lunch and dinner in Kathmandu
Emergency Rescue evacuation
Trekking Sleeping bag
Personal expenses
Tipping (Tips)
Bar bills and beverage
Departures taxes for International flight