Nepal Govt. Registered No. 16573/058
Hiunchuli (Huinchuli Peak), with Annapurna South, forms the massive south-facing wall, well seen when trekking north from Pokhara. Hiunchuli is the eastern bastion of this rampart, with its East Face overlooking the Modi Khola, guarding the entrance to the Annapurna Sanctuary. An impresseve mountain in its own right, and not, as it was at one time dubbed, the eastern outlier of Annapurna South. Despite the relative ease of access to the mountain and the popularity, rightly so, of the Sanctuary as a trekking destination, it has, like Fluted Peak , received little attention from mountaineers although it obviously offers major new route porential.
From the south, Hiunchuli has few weaknesses in its defences. A precipitous south wall rises above the untracked Chomrong Khola, seemingly menaced by snow avalanches from the slabby, ice-veined buttresses above. The easter flank from afar appears the most approach- able; however, once beyond Kuldi Ghar, it seems far less so. Out of sight, the mountain remains an unknown quantity approached by only a few, through steep and dense bamboo forest, menaced by unseen avalanche danger from hanging glaciers above. From the north the mountain rises steeply above the moraines of the Annapurna South Glacier in a series of slabby buttresses and an ill-defined and complicated North Ridge. These in turn lead to a final triangle of fluted ice that form the summit. The summit is bounded on the east by a ridge that rises in an icy parabola from a small col , from which a steep couloir descends towards the moraines above the lodges at base camp. This is a feasible looking route, and is as yet unclimbed. The mountains western arm is the ridge connecting it with Annapurna South, and forming from the north an icy wall. It is this wall that has provided the key to new things.
Day 01: arrival Kathmandu and transfer hotel 1350m.
Day 02: Prepared Permit and briefing
Day 03: Drive to Pokhara 5-6 hrs.
Day 04: Drive to Suikhet phedi 950m. and Trek to Pothana 1700m.
Day 05: Pothana -New bridge
Day 06: New Bridge-Khuldighar 2380m.
Day 07: Khuldighar-Himalayan hotel 2950m.
Day 08: Himalayan-Machapuchhere Base camp 3800m.
Day 09: Machapuchhere Base Camp-Annapurna Base Camp
Day 10: Annapurna Base camp-Hiunchuli Base camp 4600m.
Day 11: Hiunchuli Base camp-High camp 5500m.
Day 12: Hiun Chuli 6441m. Summit and back to Base Camp
Day 13: Base Camp-Himalayan hotel
Day 14: Himalayan Hotel-Chomorong 2100m.
Day 15: Chomorong-Tadapani 2700m.
Day 16: Tadapani-Ghorepani 2850m.
Day 17: Ghorepani-Birethati 1189m.
Day 18: Birethati-Pokhara 900m.
Day 19: Drive to Kathmandu 1350m.
Day 20: Kathmandu
Day 21: Final Departure